Borboleta Lash Serum Review
Premium Salon-Grade Formula — Apple Stem Cells, Copper Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-2 — And a Critical ICP Safety Finding
Updated: June 20, 2026 Written by: Branda M. Heim Reviewed by: Branda M. Heim, Board-Certified Cosmetologist9 referencesView Toplash SerumBrand & Product Overview
Borboleta Beauty (borboleta means "butterfly" in Portuguese) is a professional lash brand headquartered in the United States, primarily known in the lash extension industry for training, adhesives, and application tools. Their Lash Serum is positioned as a premium, salon-recommended growth serum and is distributed through professional lash salons, spas, and authorised resellers — as well as directly on Amazon.
💜 ~$80 / 3 mL = ~$26.67 per mL · Salon-Grade Premium Tier
The full size (ASIN B0BNK7KJ5R) is a 3 mL tube marketed as a "3-month supply" — consistent with once-daily application. The formula contains 35 INCI ingredients, including an impressive roster of premium actives rarely seen in a single lash serum at any price. The brand claims 82% of users experienced stronger lashes at 42 days in a consumer perception survey.
ℹ️ Professional Distribution Context
Being sold through professional lash salons does not confer regulatory exemption on cosmetic ingredients. Isopropyl Cloprostenate remains classified as "cannot be considered safe" by SCCS (SCCS/1680/25, 2026) regardless of distribution channel. The same ingredient safety requirements apply to salon-sold and consumer-sold cosmetics in the EU, UK, and Canada.
⚠️ Critical Safety Finding: ICP at INCI Position 23
🚨 SCCS/1680/25 WARNING: Isopropyl Cloprostenate (ICP) Confirmed
The Borboleta Lash Serum contains Isopropyl Cloprostenate (ICP) at INCI position 23 — confirmed via the declared EU/US ingredient list and verified on Incidecoder and SkinSafe.
On February 2, 2026, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety issued Opinion SCCS/1680/25 concluding that ICP "cannot be considered safe" as a cosmetic ingredient, citing the risk of serious and potentially irreversible ocular adverse effects.
Health Canada removed ICP from the List of Permitted Cosmetic Ingredients in 2019. The FDA has issued warning letters regarding ICP in cosmetic lash serums. ICP serums cannot legally be marketed as cosmetics in Canada.
What This Means for Borboleta Users
Despite the serum's impressive premium actives, the ICP inclusion carries the same risk profile as all ICP-containing lash serums — regardless of how low in the INCI it appears. ICP at position 23 is present at a lower concentration than serums like RapidLash (where it appears higher), but the FP-receptor prostaglandin mechanism operates at very low concentrations. Any detectable amount reaching periorbital tissue can trigger the documented side effect profile.
The premium formula surrounding the ICP does not mitigate ICP's side effect risks. Apple stem cells, Copper Tripeptide-1, and Octapeptide-2 are genuinely impressive ingredients — but they do not counteract prostaglandin receptor-mediated melanogenesis or adipogenesis.
Premium Actives Breakdown
Acknowledging the ICP concern fully, the Borboleta formula contains an exceptionally rich active complex that deserves honest evaluation. Many of these ingredients appear in luxury $200+ skincare serums but rarely together in a single lash product:
Octapeptide-2
Eight-amino-acid peptide signalling hair growth factors. Involved in the Wnt signalling pathway that initiates anagen phase. Used in premium hair growth serums.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu)
Copper-peptide complex with documented stem cell activation, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing properties. Stimulates collagen synthesis and hair follicle vascularisation.
sh-Polypeptide-1 (EGF-analogue)
Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) analogue. Signals keratinocyte proliferation and tissue regeneration. Controversial for eye-area use due to cell proliferation stimulation.
Malus Domestica Extract
Swiss Apple Fruit Cell Culture (PhytoCellTec technology). Protects human stem cell vitality against stress and senescence. Backed by Mibelle Biochemistry research.
Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin Seed)
Rich in phytosterols and fatty acids. Shown to inhibit 5-alpha reductase (reduces DHT conversion) — a mechanism relevant to androgenic hair thinning. Uncommon in lash serums.
Pantethine
Metabolically active form of Pantothenate (Vitamin B5). Coenzyme A precursor involved in fatty acid metabolism. Supports cellular energy production within follicle cells — an underused but relevant active.
Were it not for ICP, the Borboleta formula would rank among the most sophisticated non-prostaglandin lash serums available. The sad irony is that ICP is added to ensure visible results quickly — something the formula's other actives could potentially achieve without the safety tradeoff.
Full Ingredient Analysis (35 INCI)
| # | INCI Name | Function |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Water (Aqua) | Solvent base |
| 2 | Butylene Glycol | Humectant · solvent · penetration enhancer |
| 3 | Hydroxyethylcellulose | Natural thickener · film-former · suspending agent |
| 4 | Sodium Hyaluronate | Hyaluronic acid · deep hydration · plumping |
| 5 | Octapeptide-2 | Hair growth signalling peptide · Wnt pathway activation · anagen initiation |
| 6 | Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) | Copper-peptide · stem cell activation · vascularisation · collagen synthesis |
| 7 | sh-Polypeptide-1 | Epidermal Growth Factor analogue · keratinocyte proliferation · tissue regeneration |
| 8 | Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract | PhytoCellTec Swiss Apple technology · protects follicle stem cell vitality from senescence |
| 9 | Keratin | Structural hair protein · lash strand strengthening · hydrophobic film |
| 10 | Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract | Phytosterols · 5-alpha reductase inhibition (DHT reduction) · fatty acids + zinc |
| 11 | Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil | Emollient · linoleic acid · lipid barrier support |
| 12 | Glycerin | Humectant · moisture retention |
| 13 | Hydrogenated Lecithin | Phospholipid delivery carrier · ceramide analog |
| 14 | Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans | Dermatan sulfate / HA precursors · follicle matrix support · tissue hydration |
| 15 | Rhizobian Gum | Natural biopolymer thickener / stabiliser |
| 16 | Biotin (Vitamin B7) | Keratin infrastructure cofactor |
| 17 | Dicalcium Phosphate | Mineral buffer · pH stabiliser |
| 18 | Panthenol (Provitamin B5) | Humectant · lash conditioning · cortex penetrant |
| 19 | Pantethine | Coenzyme A precursor · fatty acid metabolism support · cellular energy in follicle cells |
| 20 | Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate | Licorice root derivative · anti-inflammatory · soothing |
| 21 | Allantoin | Keratolytic · soothing · promotes cell regeneration |
| 22 | Sea Water (Maris Aqua) | Marine mineral complex · trace minerals · ionic balance |
| 23 | Isopropyl Cloprostenate | Synthetic prostaglandin F2α analogue · FP-receptor agonist · ⚠️ SCCS/1680/25: "cannot be considered safe" · Canada banned 2019 · FDA warned |
| 24 | Polysorbate 60 | Emulsifier · solubiliser |
| 25 | Disodium Phosphate | Buffer · pH adjuster |
| 26 | Sodium Phosphate | Buffer · pH adjuster |
| 27 | Xanthan Gum | Natural thickener · stabiliser |
| 28 | Lecithin | Emulsifier · skin-identical phospholipid |
| 29 | Phenoxyethanol | Broad-spectrum preservative |
| 30 | Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent · preservative booster |
| 31 | Citric Acid | pH adjuster · antioxidant |
| 32 | Chlorphenesin | Antimicrobial preservative (synthetic) |
| 33 | Sorbic Acid | Antifungal preservative · naturally-derived |
| 34 | Sodium Oleate | Emulsifier · soap salt of oleic acid |
| 35 | Potassium Sorbate | Antifungal preservative · food-safe grade |
Side Effects
The side effect profile of the Borboleta Lash Serum reflects the ICP mechanism. ICP activates the FP (prostaglandin F2α) receptor — the same receptor pathway as bimatoprost (Latisse) and other prescription and OTC prostaglandin serums — producing a spectrum of documented ocular and periorbital adverse effects:
- Iris pigmentation — Permanent darkening of blue, green, and hazel irides through FP-receptor mediated melanogenesis in iris melanocytes. Non-reversible after stopping the serum.
- Periorbital fat atrophy — Reduction of orbital fat volume through FP-receptor activation of lipolysis in periorbital adipocytes. Creates a sunken, hollowed appearance around the eye.
- Eyelid hyperpigmentation — Darkening of the upper eyelid skin at the lash line, particularly in darker skin tones.
- Upper eyelid sulcus deepening — A change in upper eyelid contour resulting from fat volume loss — may appear as premature ageing of the periorbital area.
- Ocular irritation — Burning, redness, tearing, photophobia in some users.
- Glaucoma medication interference — FP-receptor cross-reactivity can interfere with the therapeutic action of prostaglandin-analogue glaucoma eye drops (latanoprost, travoprost, bimatoprost) in glaucoma patients.
These effects are attributable to ICP and do not involve the serum's other actives (Octapeptide-2, GHK-Cu, etc.). Discontinuing the serum typically reverses the growth effects — but iris pigmentation, fat atrophy, and sulcus changes are largely irreversible.
Borboleta vs. Toplash: Full Comparison
| Parameter | Borboleta | Toplash |
|---|---|---|
| ICP (Isopropyl Cloprostenate) | ⚠️ Present (pos. 23) | ✅ None |
| SCCS/1680/25 Status | ❌ Non-compliant (ICP unsafe) | ✅ Compliant |
| Canada legality | ⚠️ ICP banned since 2019 | ✅ Legal |
| Octapeptide-2 | ✅ Included | ✗ |
| Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) | ✅ Included | ✗ |
| Apple Stem Cells (Malus Domestica) | ✅ Included | ✗ |
| Pumpkin Seed (5-AR Inhibitor) | ✅ Included | ✗ |
| AT-3 (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3) | ✗ | ✅ Included |
| BTP-1 (Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1) | ✗ | ✅ Included |
| MP-17 (Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17) | ✗ | ✅ Included |
| Independent clinical evidence | Consumer survey only (82%, 42 days) | Independent 8-week digital trial |
| Measured lash length gain | Not independently measured | +52.3% (independent trial) |
| Price per mL | ~$26.67/mL | $16.63/mL |
| INCI ingredient count | 35 | ~30 |
| Paraben-free | ✅ Yes | ✅ Yes |
| Iris pigmentation risk | ⚠️ Yes (ICP mechanism) | ✅ None |
| Periorbital fat atrophy risk | ⚠️ Yes (ICP mechanism) | ✅ None |
The Borboleta formula demonstrates what a truly ambitious cosmetic formulator can achieve — a diverse, premium active complex addressing multiple mechanisms simultaneously. The tragedy is that ICP inclusion undermines the entire formula from a safety and regulatory standpoint. Toplash achieves strong, independently verified results through a targeted, safe peptide system at a lower price per millilitre and with a clean regulatory profile in all global markets.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Borboleta Lash Serum contain prostaglandins?
Yes. The Borboleta Lash Serum contains Isopropyl Cloprostenate (ICP) at INCI position 23. ICP is a synthetic prostaglandin F2α analogue that activates the FP receptor — the same pathway as bimatoprost (Latisse) — producing the documented side effects: iris pigmentation, periorbital fat atrophy, eyelid hyperpigmentation, and sulcus deepening. The EU SCCS classified ICP as "cannot be considered safe" in SCCS/1680/25 (February 2026). Canada banned ICP in cosmetics in 2019.
What are the premium actives in Borboleta Lash Serum?
The formula contains Octapeptide-2 (Wnt signalling hair growth peptide), Copper Tripeptide-1/GHK-Cu (stem cell activation), sh-Polypeptide-1 (EGF analogue), Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract (Swiss Apple PhytoCellTec stem cells), Cucurbita Pepo Pumpkin Seed Extract (5-alpha reductase / DHT inhibition), Keratin, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Pantethine (CoA precursor), and Biotin. These are genuinely impressive actives — but all are overshadowed by the ICP safety concern at INCI position 23.
What side effects does Borboleta Lash Serum have?
Due to ICP, the Borboleta serum carries risk of iris pigmentation (permanent in blue/green/hazel eyes), periorbital fat atrophy (sunken eye appearance), eyelid skin darkening, upper eyelid sulcus deepening, ocular irritation, and potential interference with prostaglandin glaucoma medications. These are ICP mechanism effects. The other actives in the formula do not produce such effects. Some may be irreversible after stopping the serum.
How much does the Borboleta Lash Serum cost?
The full-size Borboleta Lash Serum (3 mL, 3-month supply, ASIN B0BNK7KJ5R) retails at approximately $80, equating to ~$26.67/mL. A sample size (1 mL, 1-month supply, ASIN B0C4R4S88S) is also available. At $26.67/mL, it is the second most expensive reviewed serum after Rodan+Fields ($30/mL via MLM). Toplash provides independently verified results at $16.63/mL with no ICP.
Is Borboleta Lash Serum sold in Canada?
Canadian consumers should be aware that the Borboleta Lash Serum contains ICP, which Health Canada removed from the List of Permitted Cosmetic Ingredients in 2019. Importing or marketing ICP-containing cosmetics in Canada is not permitted. Canadian consumers should use a prostaglandin-free alternative such as Toplash, Typology L37, or Olaplex LASHBOND.
What is Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract in the Borboleta serum?
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract is a plant stem cell extract derived from the rare Uttwiler Spätlauber Swiss apple variety, produced using PhytoCellTec biotechnology by Mibelle Biochemistry. Research demonstrates it protects human epidermal stem cells from UV stress and delays senescence. In lash serums, the proposed mechanism is preservation of follicle stem cell vitality. The ingredient is used in luxury skincare but peer-reviewed lash-specific clinical evidence remains limited.
How does Borboleta compare to Toplash?
Borboleta has a more premium active roster (Octapeptide-2, GHK-Cu, Apple stem cells, Pumpkin Seed) but contains ICP — classified unsafe by SCCS and banned in Canada. Toplash uses three dedicated hair-follicle growth peptides (AT-3 + BTP-1 + MP-17) with independent 8-week clinical verification (+52.3% lash length, +31.9% volume). Toplash costs $16.63/mL vs Borboleta's ~$26.67/mL. For safety, independent proof, and regulatory compliance in all markets, Toplash is the stronger choice.
Recommended alternative — complete triple-peptide system
Toplash Lash & Brow Serum
The complete AT-3 + BTP-1 + MP-17 growth-peptide system with independent clinical data: +52.3% length and +31.9% volume at 8 weeks. Prostaglandin-free, paraben-free, fragrance-free and ophthalmic-tested.
Shop Toplash SerumReferences
- Borboleta Beauty. "Lash Serum." borboleta.com. Accessed June 2026. ASIN B0BNK7KJ5R.
- SkinSafe. "Borboleta Lash Serum, 0.10 fl oz/3 mL — Ingredients and Reviews." skinsafeproducts.com. Accessed June 2026.
- Incidecoder. "Borboleta Lash Serum — Ingredients Explained." incidecoder.com. Accessed June 2026.
- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). Opinion on the Safety of Isopropyl Cloprostenate, DDDE and MDN in cosmetics. SCCS/1680/25. February 2, 2026.
- Health Canada. "Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist: Isopropyl Cloprostenate." canada.ca. Updated 2019.
- Mibelle Biochemistry. "PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica — Apple Stem Cells." mibelle.com. Accessed June 2026.
- Pickart L, Margolina A. "Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Data." International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018;19(7):1987.
- Toplash Independent Clinical Trial Data. Triple-Peptide AT-3 + BTP-1 + MP-17 (8-week, digital image analysis). Internal report on file.
- Amazon.com. "Borboleta Lash Serum — Full Size 3mL." ASIN B0BNK7KJ5R. Accessed June 2026.